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Cast-on or Cast-off

Every-other-needle cast-on
This cast-on method is fast to do. It produces an edge that is closed but not very attractive. The edge is better used for a turned up hem, enclosed in a band or finished with a crocheted edge. This 2 step cast-on is also used for the basic technique of increasing multiple stitches on the opposite side of the carriage. To cast on, bring every other needle to working position and knit one row. Then bring the remaining needles to working position. With the Brother bulky machine, I found it necessary to bring the remaining needles to the hold position. The needles that cast on in the first row act as anchors for the stitches formed in the second row.

Automatic weaving cast-on
This cast-on is identical to the every-other-needle cast-on, but is done in one step. It's possible only on machines with weaving brushes and a carriage that can be set to knit needles back from their holding position. To work this, push the needles into working position and then move every other needle to holding position. Thread the carriage, carry the yarn over the needles in holding position and tie the yarn to the clamp on the opposite side of the carriage or hold it down loosely with your left hand. Make sure the yarn lies across the needle shafts in front of the sinker posts. Knit one row, and the cast-on is complete. The needles that were in working position have taken on plain loops and the needles in holding position have formed complete stitches.

Latch-tool cast-on
Known as the crocheted or chain-stitch cast-on, this fast method produces a closed, slightly less elastic edge. To work this cast-on, move the carriage to the right, tie the yarn to the left clamp and bring the needles to holding position. Lay the yarn on top of the needle shafts, in front of the sinker posts. On the left, do a simple e-wrap on the shaft of the latch tool and form a stitch by pulling the yarn through the e-wrap. Push the tool from below up between the first and second needles and grab the free yarn above with the hook. Then pull the tool down through the loop forming a new stitch. Push the tool up between the second and third needles so that the stitch slides behind the latch and the hook can grab more yarn forming the next stitch. Continue chaining this way across the needles and slip the last loop onto the needle. Thread the carriage and knit the first row.

E-wrap cast-on
This produces an attractive, fairly stretchy, closed edge that really requires no additional treatment. You can e-wrap in either direction. With the carriage on the right and the needles in holding position, wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the shaft of one needle at a time. After wrapping the last needle on the right, thread the carriage and knit. If your carriage cannot be set to knit needles back from holding position, wrap in the needle hooks and push them slightly forward of regular working position so that the hooks are clear of the sinker posts.

Basic transfer-tool bind-off
This edge is not very elastic. Evenly controlling the tension on it can be difficult. Use a single-eyelet transfer tool to move the first stitch onto the second needle and then pull the needle forward to holding position so the two stitches slide behind the latch. Lay the free yarn into the hook of the needle and manually knit it in to form a new stitch. This new stitch is moved to the third needle and you continue this process until all the stitches are bound off. To get a better control of the tension, before laying the yarn into the hook of the needle, pass it behind the adjacent sinker post.

Back-stitch bind-off
Back stitching produces a bind off that is stretchier than either of the transfer-tool or crocheted methods. End with the carriage on either side, and cut the yarn leaving a tail at least twice as long as the width of your knitting. You can place the needles in hold or in working position. If you are starting on the left, thread the yarn through a blunt needle or your bodkin and sew down into the center of the first stitch and out at the left side. Pull the yarn around in front of the stitches and sew in the center of the second stitch and out the center of the first stitch. Next sew into the center of the third stitch and out through the center of the second stitch. Continue across all the stitches.

Latch-tool bind-off
This is also known as the crocheted bind-off. This is quick and easy to do. Each stitch is chained through the next, without adding any new yarn. Knit the last row in the loosest tension or largest stitch size possible. Bring the needles all the way forward to holding position. Break the yarn leaving a small tail. Starting on the side opposite the tail, use the thumb of one hand to push needle butts back to non-working position. Insert the tool into the first stitch on the side opposite the tail so that, as the needle is pushed back to non-working position, the stitch slips over the latch and onto the tool. Push the tool far enough forward for the stitch to slip behind the tool's latch. Insert the tool into the second stitch, push the second needle back to non-working position and pull the second stitch through the first. Continue chaining one stitch through the next until you reach the end. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch to secure the chain.

Gathering-stitch bind-off
The simplest way to remove stitches from the machine is to thread the yarn tail through a yarn needle and run it through the stitches. The machine needles can be placed in either working or holding position. This bind-off is an obvious choice when you need to gather stitches for decorative or functional purposes. If you are working with bulky yarns, tricky to gather, run the yarn through every other stitch, then carry it back to the beginning and run through the alternate stitches.